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Home » Blog » Tips · Guides · How Tos » Secrets of a Restaurant Chef – Poor Kitchen Mindset
Tips · Guides · How Tos

Secrets of a Restaurant Chef – Poor Kitchen Mindset

Avatar photoChef Laura Frankel • Jun 27, 2012 (Updated: Jun 10, 2021)
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pots and pans

Convenience foods (heat and serve) are typically made with inferior ingredients; contain way too much salt and empty calories. I do not purchase convenience products-ever!  I do not use pre-made sauces, stocks or pre-made products at work and I would never feed that stuff to my family and friends.  I cook with the Cucina Povera (“poor kitchen”) mindset.

In the kosher kitchen we only have so many ingredients to work with, both at home and professionally.  Many ingredients that most chefs take for granted are not part of my daily repertoire due to kosher restrictions.  I have a meat and pareve kitchen and cannot just add cream to a soup or sauce to thicken it.  I have to work a bit harder and find other ways that fit into the kosher laws. I do not believe in using faux foods for substitutions and look to natural ingredients that are already kosher and in season.  In the spirit of Cucina Povera, I embrace my constraints, accept the materials I have to work with and move on.  I always say that if a recipe cannot be made without completely mutilating it, then do not make it.  I have never put soy crème brulees on my menu and never will.  I also do not sell faux crab or mock sour cream. Real sour cream is amazing and who doesn’t love crème brulee? The artificial stuff doesn’t come close and I have too much respect for my ingredients, clients and family to ever serve ersatz food.

Kashrut is all about making choices—not getting around them with cheap imitations.

Another tip I’ve learned over the years, learn to make one great recipe and then riff on it.  Everyone should have their own signature dish. This is the dish that you know inside and out and can do in your sleep.  It can be as simple as meatballs or as complex as homemade sausage.  Once you have that recipe under your belt, you can shake it up.  Add new flavors and ingredients and play with it.  Now you have new versions and more options.

Most of all, have fun in the kitchen and take some chances. Everyone is so afraid to make a mistake in the kitchen.  As long as the food is safe to eat, go ahead and play with it!  No one knows what the dish was supposed to be, except you, so whatever you say it is, it is.

Don’t miss my other Secrets of a Restaurant Chef:

Quality Knives

Stocked Pantry

Category: Tips · Guides · How Tos
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About Chef Laura Frankel

LAURA FRANKEL is a noted Kosher Chef and the author of Jewish Cooking for All Seasons and Jewish Slow Cooker Recipes (Agate Publishing). Her third book, Clean Slate Jewish Cooking is to be published in 2017. She is the founder of Shallots Restaurants in Chicago, Skokie and New York and she worked for Wolfgang Puck for 10 years.Chef Laura claims that she was born knowing how to cook and understanding ingredients. Whether or not that is true, she has made many people across the country and around the world happy with her food, including her 3 sons who love to eat great food. Chef Laura spends her days in pursuit of the perfect bite and will be working with the team to create innovative recipes and tips for busy home-cooks everywhere.

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Comments

  1. chelseaa

    Jul 4, 2012 at 4:14 am

    I need to learn some better knife skills! Haha … I see there’s already a knife article, I’ll have to read it. That, and how to slice a mango … I try and try but always mess up and end up mangling it and never having the nice slices I dream of.

    Reply
  2. saturdaynightfever

    Jul 4, 2012 at 2:05 am

    Do extracts have a freshness date?

    [email protected]

    Reply
  3. Lexiquin

    Jul 4, 2012 at 12:38 am

    I would like to learn how to sharpen my knives and how to flip eggs.
    Thanks for the giveaway!

    Reply
  4. fangirl

    Jul 3, 2012 at 11:43 pm

    I really need to learn my knife skills. Where and how should I do that?

    Reply
  5. sjs

    Jul 3, 2012 at 9:55 pm

    Thanks! Pesto sounds a lot more healthy. I had been looking unsuccessfully on the internet for a soy substitute and this sounds like a tasty substitute.

    Reply
  6. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 3, 2012 at 9:35 pm

    are you kidding? i love potato salad and egg salad. not so much with the tuna salad though!

    i use a spring garlic pesto with my potato salad. See my blog at http://www.cheflauraskosher.com
    or you can try basil and or parsley pesto instead of mayo.

    for tuna salad i do balsamic vinaigrette, golden raisins (sounds weird but it a Sicilian thing and is very good!), peas, sun dried tomatoes and tons of parsley-No Mayo!

    i admit to egg salad with mayo and Dijon style mustard. i like to make Deviled eggs with chopped smoked salmon and a little hot sauce and mayo. really good.

    use all the flavors of Asian food without the soy by using Miso (easily found kosher at most grocery stores), ginger and toasted sesame oil. i do not love soy sauce and most people over use it.

    so, after you stir fry, add a little ginger and garlic with scallions to a pan with sesame oil. add a tablespoon or 2 of miso paste and work with some rice wine vinegar and adjust the seasoning and toss with your veggies, chicken or fish.

    Reply
  7. sjs

    Jul 3, 2012 at 9:24 pm

    This is probably on your ugh! list but my kids like potato salad, tuna salad, and egg salad. Is there anything to substitute for mayonnaise and to make these dishes less plain? Also, one of my daughters is sensitive to soy but wants Chinese food-is there anything that can substitute for soy sauce?

    Reply
  8. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 3, 2012 at 7:00 pm

    go simple during the summer. let your fresh vegetables and herbs shine in each dish.

    i like to grill vegetables and then dress them with a basil pesto with dairy or pareve preparations.

    take advantage of the produce-soon enough it will be gone and then we scrounge around for the variety we have now.

    marinate your chicken, turkey and fish in herbs, olive oil and fresh garlic. grill or lightly saute and add in a grain like farro, quinoa or bulgur and enjoy.

    keep the food light but intensely flavored with all the earth has to offer.

    Reply
  9. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 3, 2012 at 6:56 pm

    you need to use butter for a flaky pie crust or….you can use a non hydrogenated shortening.
    NEVER MARGARINE!

    get all your ingredients really cold and pulse in a food processor. chill and roll.

    check out Julia child crust recipes. they are simply the best.

    Reply
  10. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 3, 2012 at 6:54 pm

    see previous comments and my answers. you need to practice.

    Reply
  11. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 3, 2012 at 6:54 pm

    HA! i love it! not happening. the onions defenses are what you cry-you NEVER get used to it.
    all this sticking onions i freezers and putting matches between your teeth etc.. are bubbe meises.

    so, your best defense is an offense. cut the onion in half from root to flower.
    peel the onion halves. make cuts lengthwise 7/8 of the way all across the onion. then cut hoizontally 2-3 times. now cut your pieces.

    when you keep smashing the onion on your board it releases all the juices and that is why you cry.

    also, do not cut it in the food processor as it squeezes all the juice out and make the onion dry and gross.

    Reply
  12. ferriz

    Jul 3, 2012 at 12:08 pm

    how to chop onions without crying…

    dani marie

    ferriza2(at)yahoo(dot)com

    Reply
  13. MizVickik

    Jul 3, 2012 at 10:18 am

    I’d like to learn how to slice & chop vegetables properly, the way the pros do.

    Reply
  14. ShawnaMichelle2

    Jul 3, 2012 at 3:32 am

    I would Love to know how to make a great flaky pie crust so I don’t have to buy my crusts anymore.

    Reply
  15. Dianeba53

    Jul 3, 2012 at 2:17 am

    Could you please talk more about summer time entrees? suggestions?

    Reply
  16. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 11:25 pm

    i like to start every bread dough with a sponge. a sponge is a mix of 1 cup flour, 1 cup warm water, salt and yeast. i just mix this with my hands and let it get spongy for an hour or so. then i build the bread. the sponge gets the yeast going and starts the flavor building.

    once your sponge is going-you can use a machine or a mixer. my husband is also a professional chef and he wouldn’t be caught dead using a machine for bread. he thinks he can get better texture by hand-whatever!

    whatever works for you is what you should do. just have fun with it. and don’t use margarine for challah. see previous answer on breads 🙂

    Reply
  17. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 11:18 pm

    baking soda needs an acid to activate. (remember when you were a kid and made the volcano and made it “erupt” when you added baking soda and vinegar?

    baking powder is DOUBLE acting so it works with heat and acid. both of these are Chemical leaveners which means a chemical reaction is needed to get them to work versus a mechanical leavener like whipping air into something.

    recipes use both as each works a bit differently and each stops at a certain point in the baking process. you want a delicate rise in your cakes and cookies-not a blown out hot mess! recipes are “sometimes” works of art and it is amazing when done properly and a cake levels off perfectly with a moist delicate crumb and amazing flavor.

    not sure why people think it is Ok to just leave stuff out or substitute willy-nilly?
    think about it-a properly made cake makes you happy and looks gorgeous. all ingredients working together in harmony.

    yes, you can refrigerate bread doughs. they develop flavor from the yeast doing its thing.
    it smells a little like beer when you smell the dough-but it will bake into a flavorful bread.
    please don’t use margarine for your challah! use canola oil. when you melt the margarine to create a liquid-you might as well just start with a liquid-right?

    i also use honey instead of sugar or sometimes use brown sugar when i am in a good mood. gives the bread a nice color a sweet-molasses flavor.

    bread is pretty basic and can be played with. i take out some white flour and add wholewheat with honey and canola oil. it is really tasty.

    Reply
  18. Nechama Tawil

    Jul 2, 2012 at 11:08 pm

    Oh, one last question: I have a bread machine so I like to do my doughs in them and save time/effort. The by-hand recipes though, tend to differ a lot so I usually just balk and make them by hand-can I just dump in the ingredients and be fine or do I really have to proof the yeast, knead it 12 times under a full moon etc?

    🙂

    Reply
  19. Nechama Tawil

    Jul 2, 2012 at 11:03 pm

    Wow! Forget the giveaway-this is a prize in its own right! Thanks for wealth of information and yes…I will be stalking your blog!

    Okay, this has been bugging me for ages: What is the difference between baking powder and baking soda? I know the actual difference but how do they differ baking-wise? Why do some recipes call for both? Were they written by confused recipe developers that decided to throw both in just in case? 🙂
    And in reference to that last comment you made about rising your dough overnight, you can do that??? Doesn’t that make the dough sour? Is there some doughs that you can/can’t do it with?

    Again, thanks!

    Reply
  20. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 9:40 pm

    i use a kitchenaid mixer and make my sponge in the bowl of the mixer, make the dough and then park the dough in the same metal bowl on the counter until i am ready to braid it. you can grow dough in anything-including a plastic baggie.

    maybe you rush your 1st rise? i like to make my dough on thursday night, put it in the refrigerator overnight, pull it out first thing friday and let it rise until noon. then braid it, let it rise again and then bake it.

    you can also make your dough-freeze it before it rises and then take it out and let it rise the first time and then braid it etc…

    Reply
  21. tsk11230

    Jul 2, 2012 at 9:32 pm

    My daughhter and I use the exact saome challah recipe and even the same yeast (I buy it and she “borrows”) but hers rise higher and she gets much more out of the recipe. I use a Magic Mill and she uses a Bosch. Is it the yeast or the machine? Can one raise yeast right in the metal bowl or does it need glass to grow?

    Reply
  22. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 8:32 pm

    a valid concern!

    start with a good knife. see my article on knives. buy bag of carrots and start cutting.

    hold the knife properly. if you try and hold the knife completely by the handle-it will not work well.

    you have to pinch the blade between your thumb and forefinger and then wrap your other fingers around the handle. the knife should be an extension of your hand.

    Reply
  23. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 8:30 pm

    try spice rubs and herbs.
    you can also make sauces like curries, bbq and more.

    chicken is a blank slate-you can have a good time with a properly cooked piece of chicken.

    let your inner kitchen deity out and have some fun. we were given taste buds because eating is supposed to be enjoyable. so go with it!

    Reply
  24. tamarw

    Jul 2, 2012 at 8:21 pm

    I need to know the basics, like cutting, slicing, and dicing. I have a fear of losing a finger when slicing vegetables.

    Reply
  25. clc408

    Jul 2, 2012 at 6:47 pm

    I’d like to learn new ways to cook chicken so it isn’t always the same.

    Reply
  26. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 5:24 pm

    tis true!

    Reply
  27. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 5:24 pm

    🙂

    Reply
  28. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 5:23 pm

    look online and ask your rabbinical authority if you need flour with hashgacha. we do not need flour to have hashgacha here. also, many flours are kosher but do not a hechsher on the product-but the plant they are made in is supervised.

    Reply
  29. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 5:21 pm

    pie crust needs to be made with butter. if not, you can get a very mediocre crust with non-hydrogenated shortening.

    seven minute frosting is really just a cooked meringue and is really easy. it is the same an an Italian Meringue.

    Reply
  30. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 5:20 pm

    how much time ya got:) ?

    i have stories that would curl your hair. i have seen it all in decades of restaurant cheffing. i have considered trying to write a novel with the heroine being a chef, of course!

    but, yeah, i got stories. seems as though each day brings new drama.

    one real quick story. in my NY restaurant we had a request for a birthday cake and my pastry chef made the cake.

    that night, the place was packed and we were going a long with dinner service when 2 waiters came rushing in with the cake and horrified looks on their faces.

    they said people were gagging and choking at the cake table.

    my general manager came in to the kitchen. we both tasted the cake and i could not get the bite of cake past my tongue before i was gagging. i knew immediately what it was. my pastry chef had carelessly thrown in too much almond extract into the cake.

    Almond extract is super potent and too much is like a chemical burn. she told me later that she liked the smell and did not measure it, she just put it into the cake!

    so, i go out to the table with my GM and we see people looking ghastly gray! there are napkins all over the table with cake in them and a very pregnant woman sitting looking sick. her husband asks, “do we need to go to the ER?”

    i told them what it is was and they were fine. but the smell of almonds hung in the dining room for hours!

    Reply
  31. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 5:11 pm

    the sauce question comes up a lot. see answers i gave to other people asking.

    sauce making is an art and takes a lot of practice. read the answers i have given, make some stock and buy some wine (for the sauce!) and get started.

    Reply
  32. schoenbc1

    Jul 2, 2012 at 12:22 pm

    I think the ultimate secret to being a good chef, is to develop the creativity that is tours, alone, and, in order to create those special dishes, use quality ingredients, whether they come fresh from the tree, animal or bush, or from quality manufacturers who create ingredients that will enhance the good work of a talented chef!

    Reply
  33. Leez

    Jul 2, 2012 at 7:44 am

    I like your idea that “no one knows what the dish is abut besides for the cook himself”. This is completely true! For example, on friday, i put up cholent and in the afternoon of course there were some hungry people who decided to sample some cholent. They all raved and ranted how good it was until one person commented on what that specific taste was. Once they found out what it was, they decided the cholent taste strange. If the cook keeps his ingredients to himself, the secrets are on him!!

    Reply
  34. Kobi Hensley

    Jul 2, 2012 at 6:45 am

    I’d like to know how to make good healthy food fast

    Reply
  35. debthegeek

    Jul 2, 2012 at 5:11 am

    Where can I find an Italian / 00 style flour with a hechsher? I used to use King Arthur Flour brand in my pizza and pastas, but only their all-purpose and whole wheat flours come from supervised lines.

    Reply
  36. chocgal

    Jul 2, 2012 at 4:43 am

    We eat a lot of chicken cutlets and I’m always looking for new sauces and ways to make them. I’d love to try some of the oxygen sauces.

    Reply
  37. meredlp

    Jul 2, 2012 at 2:57 am

    I’d like to learn 5 basic sauces for various ethnic foods

    Reply
  38. Laya

    Jul 2, 2012 at 2:55 am

    Id like to learn how to make a pie crust and a seven minute frosting

    Reply
  39. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 1:52 am

    lots of people have asked this. you need to decide on a shape and size and then get each item to the same shape and size so they will all cook the same rate.

    i like an oblique cut. it is a rolling bias.
    i take a carrot for example and make a 1/2 inch cut, then roll the carrot 1/4 turn and make a cut, then roll it 1/4 again and cut etc…
    looks faceted and pretty on a plate.

    Reply
  40. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 1:51 am

    smoked paprika is my go to spice these days. Pimenton is a spanish spice made by smoking peppers over oak until they are dry. then they are ground to a powder. the paprika comes sweet, spicy or medium.

    you can find kosher smoked paprika online. it rocks and gives all the flavor of smoky-goodness with the fat!

    Reply
  41. Aisling

    Jul 2, 2012 at 1:42 am

    I know this is very basic – but how do chefs manage to cut all the vegetables into same sized pieces? And what’s the proper way to cut them?

    Reply
  42. nurserae

    Jul 2, 2012 at 1:12 am

    I’ve moved to the south, everything seems to be flavored with bacon…can you suggest a substitute?

    Reply
  43. robee61

    Jul 2, 2012 at 12:49 am

    Great story, I woould love to hear more about your cooking adventures.

    Reply
  44. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 12:35 am

    you need to learn a formula/recipe and then adapt depending upon humidity and temperature.

    bread is easy and not scary. just learn to play with the yeast.

    Reply
  45. Chef Laura Frankel

    Jul 2, 2012 at 12:34 am

    i love the 6-8 inch Santoku for a utility knife. be sure to get a professional quality knife-not the house maker knife! your kids will fight over it!

    Reply
  46. Nedra Weinreich

    Jul 2, 2012 at 12:23 am

    Chef Laura – I have to say how impressed I am at the thoughtful, concise and info-packed responses you are giving everyone! My question is if you had to choose one all-purpose knife for chopping vegetables, what kind would you recommend? Thanks!

    Reply
  47. miriama59

    Jul 2, 2012 at 12:20 am

    Thank you!

    Reply
  48. jteek2000

    Jul 1, 2012 at 11:52 pm

    From watching various cooking shows and dining out, one of the biggest differences i’ve seen in home cooking is the sauces used to accent dishes. I would love to learn some of the basics here.

    Reply
  49. Ma Motts

    Jul 1, 2012 at 11:34 pm

    secretly nothing- I would rather watch and savor everything- I have learned b watching others there is so much to take in- but I cannot make bread for the life of me- it is not consistent- but thats a baker…

    Reply
  50. ladylisa

    Jul 1, 2012 at 11:13 pm

    I watch all the chef shows like top chef, chopped, 80 plates I like to hear all the advice a chef gives. I would love to know how to make the perfect lava cake or how do you know without cutting into steak when it is well done or rare when grilling it outside?

    Reply
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