You can’t be in Israel and not go to at least one skewer shop (or shipudia in Hebrew). The smoke, the salads that keep on coming, the steaming laffas that show up still puffed from the fire. But walk into the newly opened Etzel Sabah (אצל סבח), and you’ll quickly see this isn’t your average skewer joint.
The space itself is the first surprise. It’s big, open, and clearly designed with intention, blending modern design with ancient Moroccan rugs. The open kitchen sits front and center, and right behind it is the real star of the place: a central charcoal grill you can watch working the whole time. There you’ll find skewers upon skewers of charred sweetbreads, goose hearts, juicy kebabs, and chicken thighs.
Zoom in on any table, and you’ll find it covered with salads, spreads, and homemade breads, with refills included. Fried sweet potato crisps and charred eggplant pair perfectly with the crispy bread, and the matbucha, in particular, is served simmering straight from the stovetop and packed with spice. The appetizers are tantalizing as well; we enjoyed the hummus with innards and the crispy fried kibbeh, perfect bites to start. At Etzel Sabah, the focus is on fresh ingredients, since nearly forty staff members prepare everything on premises from scratch and make it to order. The smoky flavors of the meat grilled directly over charcoal are intoxicating; by the end, there was barely room left on the table for another plate. Each skewer juicier and more flavorful than the last; it’s hard not to feel what’s so special about the place.
Once the meal comes to an end, the manager comes and asks if we’re full; we show him our empty plates and full bellies, and he says he hopes we have a separate stomach for dessert and brings out each of their sweet finales. Their Malabi and Creme Brulee are both creamy and delicious, but the olive oil and sea salt dark chocolate mousse is the dessert that really blew me away, with the savory notes cutting directly through the dark chocolate’s richness.
They also offer a business lunch deal at 109 NIS that runs all day, including dinner, and additionally have a private event room for celebrations or work dinners that need their own space. Throughout the week, Etzel Sabah also runs a salad market where you can buy the same fresh salads by weight and take them home, no reservation required.
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Most importantly, Etzel Sabah hasn’t lost what makes a shipudia a shipudia in the first place. It’s still loud in the best way. It still feels like a family occasion even when you come with friends. Still built around the idea that a meal isn’t really a meal until the table is completely covered. If you’re looking for an elevated take on the standard skewer shop, this is the place to go. Same soul, more polish, and a grill that’s always working.
📍 Etzel Sabah
- Location: 96 Khalutzei HaTa’asiyah Street, Haifa
- Hashgacha: Rabbanut Haifa*
- Social Media: Follow them on Instagram (@atsabbah)
*Kashrut status is subject to change over time. We always recommend verifying current hashgacha certification directly with the venue before visiting.
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